As written on 26/12/2010.
Off with my scarf, coat and glovely finger warmers (but not my hoody - no one removes Mr hoodington) as the temperature was 10 degrees higher in Kyoto than in Sapporo, Mika's winter wonderland. And it was beautiful. Having remained Japan's capital until 1868, Kyoto has kept a tight hold on its history with the same resilience as a cat-lady hoards her thimbles. Most famous and possibly the most beautiful attraction in Kyoto is the Golden Pavillion at Kinkaku-ji. Situated just North East of the main city, the pavilion lye's serenely over a small lake in which fish tumble and chase after one another. Under a bright light the pavilion glimmers. Then on the other side of the city, rising amongst the hills is Kiyomizudera temple. With an abundance of traditional monuments packed tightly together, this temple was probably my favourite in the whole of Japan. To its side clusters of graves ripple down the hill quite beautifully, but also strangely, as they face towards the motorway like children ticking off their ‘I-spy cars’ books. Not quite the peaceful Buddhist way. Also, having left the temple at sunset I was able to walk through Gion as the Geisha came out to play – playing what I’m not sure as having asked an anthropologist studying the subject she was pretty secretive and quite the oddball so I swiftly bumbled away as uniformed as ever. Next on the horizon was Osaka, which although smaller than Tokyo is bigger in the bizarre as I found out in the busy Miniambi district in Nanba; an area where large crabs, dragons and karate sensai hang gawking off buildings whilst locals rush around below them trying to sell everything from fake glasses to ties in vending machines. With only one day in the city I went straight to Osaka Castle which, despite its intricately detailed rooftop, towers menacingly over Osaka. Also, whilst streetside I won a huge pack of supersize soy sauce wotsits on a Japanese pin ball machine, but let down the Europeans when both a German man and I lost heavily in an international beer pong competition to two Japanese beer pong virgins – bad times. Kobe was next and as I was only aware of it because of its earthquake in 1995 I wasn’t sure what to do. Merikan park and Kobe’s Harbourland (which hosts a small Brightonesque theme park) were both nice and there were some strange going-ons in Chinatown where a North Korean man campaigned for support by ranting to a bemused public crossing the road – but otherwise it was pretty samey. Aside from that, a strenuous uphill walk made my calves as tight as Joan River’s Botoxed face, as I made my way to Kitano-cho to view some quirky street performers and choose not to go into the very European styled old houses. Then the next day it was time to deck the halls with boughs of Jolly as it was Christmas Eve! So, feeling jingly I decided (I’m not sure why) to embark on a trip to Hiroshima. It was all very bleak. As is customary, I strolled through Peace Park and past the A-Dome; which, after visiting the Peace Memorial Museum was very moving and upsetting, leaving everyone who entered disappointed in the past but mainly fearing what the future might bring. After starting off with the general account of the history of the A-Bomb attack, the museum breaks you as it begins telling the details of individuals whose skin melted and whose faces deformed which shocks you until your stomach churns. I left pretty abruptly after. That night I headed to Fukuoka and on arriving in the hostel was gifted two small choccys and an ‘I <3 FUK’ sticker as Christmas presents. The next day it be Chrimbo! Yeah that’s right Xmas - the big man’s birthday! So, as is traditional in the festive period I ate Sushi, drank Sake and dressed as Father Christmas. I’m now on a ferry making my way to Busan in South Korea, but I’ll just be korearing through as I leave for Beijing on the 28th. To Busan my hearties!
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