As written on 26/12/2010.
Off with my scarf, coat and glovely finger warmers (but not my hoody - no one removes Mr hoodington) as the temperature was 10 degrees higher in Kyoto than in Sapporo, Mika's winter wonderland. And it was beautiful. Having remained Japan's capital until 1868, Kyoto has kept a tight hold on its history with the same resilience as a cat-lady hoards her thimbles. Most famous and possibly the most beautiful attraction in Kyoto is the Golden Pavillion at Kinkaku-ji. Situated just North East of the main city, the pavilion lye's serenely over a small lake in which fish tumble and chase after one another. Under a bright light the pavilion glimmers. Then on the other side of the city, rising amongst the hills is Kiyomizudera temple. With an abundance of traditional monuments packed tightly together, this temple was probably my favourite in the whole of Japan. To its side clusters of graves ripple down the hill quite beautifully, but also strangely, as they face towards the motorway like children ticking off their ‘I-spy cars’ books. Not quite the peaceful Buddhist way. Also, having left the temple at sunset I was able to walk through Gion as the Geisha came out to play – playing what I’m not sure as having asked an anthropologist studying the subject she was pretty secretive and quite the oddball so I swiftly bumbled away as uniformed as ever. Next on the horizon was Osaka, which although smaller than Tokyo is bigger in the bizarre as I found out in the busy Miniambi district in Nanba; an area where large crabs, dragons and karate sensai hang gawking off buildings whilst locals rush around below them trying to sell everything from fake glasses to ties in vending machines. With only one day in the city I went straight to Osaka Castle which, despite its intricately detailed rooftop, towers menacingly over Osaka. Also, whilst streetside I won a huge pack of supersize soy sauce wotsits on a Japanese pin ball machine, but let down the Europeans when both a German man and I lost heavily in an international beer pong competition to two Japanese beer pong virgins – bad times. Kobe was next and as I was only aware of it because of its earthquake in 1995 I wasn’t sure what to do. Merikan park and Kobe’s Harbourland (which hosts a small Brightonesque theme park) were both nice and there were some strange going-ons in Chinatown where a North Korean man campaigned for support by ranting to a bemused public crossing the road – but otherwise it was pretty samey. Aside from that, a strenuous uphill walk made my calves as tight as Joan River’s Botoxed face, as I made my way to Kitano-cho to view some quirky street performers and choose not to go into the very European styled old houses. Then the next day it was time to deck the halls with boughs of Jolly as it was Christmas Eve! So, feeling jingly I decided (I’m not sure why) to embark on a trip to Hiroshima. It was all very bleak. As is customary, I strolled through Peace Park and past the A-Dome; which, after visiting the Peace Memorial Museum was very moving and upsetting, leaving everyone who entered disappointed in the past but mainly fearing what the future might bring. After starting off with the general account of the history of the A-Bomb attack, the museum breaks you as it begins telling the details of individuals whose skin melted and whose faces deformed which shocks you until your stomach churns. I left pretty abruptly after. That night I headed to Fukuoka and on arriving in the hostel was gifted two small choccys and an ‘I <3 FUK’ sticker as Christmas presents. The next day it be Chrimbo! Yeah that’s right Xmas - the big man’s birthday! So, as is traditional in the festive period I ate Sushi, drank Sake and dressed as Father Christmas. I’m now on a ferry making my way to Busan in South Korea, but I’ll just be korearing through as I leave for Beijing on the 28th. To Busan my hearties!
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Long gone were the toasty days of India, I was now in Northern Japan and it turns out that Hokkaido is colder than a particularly
irritated bald kangaroo. Fortunately, my university housemate Mika’s house was especially warm.Mika’s family treated me like a king; in fact, they fed me like a Tudor. For starters (I guess by that merit the main course and dessert as well) every meal was like a three or four dish banquet. Breakfast would consist of a fruit bowl, a hot stew and something savoury; whilst, the rest of the day was made up of Japanese favourites with many side dishes:Okonomyaki, Tempura, Sashimi, Sushi, Ramen and Soba – which you are encouraged to sip, slurp and suck. Apparently it shows that you enjoyed the meal: I felt it showed a bit too much saliva and a tendency for spillage. It is also courteous to say ‘Itadakikass’ before and ‘Gotisosama’ after eating to show your appreciation for the food. After my choppy chop stick skills I think everyone was probably appreciative that I was able to finish at all. On a food theme, one of the first things I did in Sapporo was to make handmade Motchi (rice cakes). Feeling like a lumberjack but dressed as a milk maid I beat the cooked rice with a large wooden hammer. Between blows, another would fold and rotate the mixture – a daring pursuit with my aim. I'd say that by the end of it we'd become pretty smooth with the whole procedure; but, dressed in a pinafore, smooth probably isn't the word. Also, in Hokkaido I had the privilege of relaxing in an Onsen. Located amongst some of the giant hedgehog shaped mountains (with trees poking out at all angles) that cover Hokkaido’s landscape, the hot natural springs were perfectly tranquil – even whilst surrounded by an abundance of starker’s Japanese men. The strangest thing about the experience though was the concept of bathing outdoors in the snow; as, after an hour your body is as wrinkled as a champion gurner while your hair freezes like a teenager that's just applied a litre of asdas own brand hair gel. Quite the look! Once out, I fell to sleep like a wrinkled old baby. I have also seen many sights in and around Sapporo: from their TV Tower to their Clock Tower and from Historic central buildings such as Shiyokan and the former Hokkaido Governement Building to the Historical Villiage of Hokkaido. All the while, like throughout Japan cubed cars race around cubed houses making japan look like a giant game of Tetris. Throughout my time here I’ve learnt some basic Japanese but of the time I feel like a toddler learning his first words as I point at inanimate objects and exclaim "factory" or "sign". Just as well Mika and her family knew some English, otherwise I would have been clueless. Sam’s basic conversation made Japaneasy: Konnichiwa - Hello Sayonara/Jerne (casual) - Goodbye Arrigato godaimass/Arrigato (casual) - Thank You Oishi - Tasty Kirai – I don’t like Kirei - Beautiful Atatakai - Warm Samui – Cold Ipai - Full Hai - Yes Ne -No As written 11/12/2010.After 22 ½ hours of travelling I arrived in Tokyo tired, ratty and (with my initial night’s stay booked for the wrong day) with nowhere to stay.
Having tried a couple of full hostels I found myself stood motionless like a fox in the headlights. I froze; not because of the size of the city, nor out of tired frustration. Instead, I stood still so as to adhere to Tokyo’s collective habit of waiting endlessly to cross a road. On every corner of Tokyo stands a pelican crossing with a green/red man hanging above and regardless of whether there is a vehicle in sight, everyone stands there like statues waiting to cross. First I thought they were brainwashed, then I thought this could be part of their meditating culture and then I stopped thinking and just crossed anyway. Behind me the lights began tweeting and a stampede of Tokyo(agogoers?) battled for floor space – I was better off ahead. Despite being one of the strongest economic powers in the world with weirdness on every corner, Tokyo is shockingly safe, quiet and friendly. Bikes are left unlocked all over the place and even its attractions are quiet – unsurprising in the Buddhist temples, but the Imperial Palace and Tokyo Tower are just as deserted. But then turn the corner and even Brian Blessed would be searching for his ear plugs after half an hour in Akihabara’s electric district or under the bright lights of Shibuya. Sonic’s not just a game here but a way of life as you rush up and down stairs pulling your hair out (although I think chasing Tails is left for Roppongi’s clubbing district). This is a city full of contrast. The skyline says it all as huge skyscrapers share streets with traditional temples and serene parks. But the overall impression is stranger Carlo Ancelotti’s eyebrow. Tokyo seems undecided whether to reflect the East or West. Having been a closed off Samurai state until the fall of the Tokugawa shogunate in the late 19th Century, Japan and Tokyo in particular strove to equal Western architecture. Consequently, western architects were employed across the middle of the 20thCentury to help impress the world, developing areas of central Tokyo. Tokyo copied and advanced on Western designs, most visible in Tokyo Tower which not only copies the design of the Eiffel Tower but also cheekily surpasses it in size by 13 meters (The Eiffel Tower is 320 meters tall). But it’s not the size but the way you use it, as despite its added height, Tokyo Tower is crammed amongst other buildings and is painted in community service orange and granny sweater beige. As such, it lacks the beauty and forward thinking of Paris. But in reaction to this Japan has fought to keep hold of its past, rebuilding and preserving many of the Temples and historic landmarks that were destroyed in WW2. Like a Mitchell and Webb sketch Tokyo’s skyline is left looking pretty monotone, but every now and then its genius! Despite its large population, Tokyo is also one of the cleanest places I’ve ever been, which is really odd as there seem to be no bins and vending machines every few steps. The people are health fanatics as many still wear flu masks and some won’t sit next to me on the underground – but then I get that in England too. This is not to mention the toilets; which, heated at a temperature that makes you feel like you’ve jumped in too soon after the person before. Also, everyone should be careful not to press the wrong button as you may get a bit of a shock – or maybe a pleasant surprise! I have also heard rumours that Tokyo has a number of secret night cleaners, sweeping and washing the streets – keeps them on the streets I guess. In the meantime, I’ve eaten plenty of Sushi, seen Mount Fuji and given Wagner some wailing lessons when attempting Karaoke. I’m currently waiting for an internal flight over to Hokkaido to see my university flat mate Mika. Having heard that it’s nippier than Jordan’s tank top I think I may need to buy another jumper when I get there! |
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Samuel FryTraveller Archives
June 2011
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