As written 11/12/2010.After 22 ½ hours of travelling I arrived in Tokyo tired, ratty and (with my initial night’s stay booked for the wrong day) with nowhere to stay.
Having tried a couple of full hostels I found myself stood motionless like a fox in the headlights. I froze; not because of the size of the city, nor out of tired frustration. Instead, I stood still so as to adhere to Tokyo’s collective habit of waiting endlessly to cross a road. On every corner of Tokyo stands a pelican crossing with a green/red man hanging above and regardless of whether there is a vehicle in sight, everyone stands there like statues waiting to cross. First I thought they were brainwashed, then I thought this could be part of their meditating culture and then I stopped thinking and just crossed anyway. Behind me the lights began tweeting and a stampede of Tokyo(agogoers?) battled for floor space – I was better off ahead. Despite being one of the strongest economic powers in the world with weirdness on every corner, Tokyo is shockingly safe, quiet and friendly. Bikes are left unlocked all over the place and even its attractions are quiet – unsurprising in the Buddhist temples, but the Imperial Palace and Tokyo Tower are just as deserted. But then turn the corner and even Brian Blessed would be searching for his ear plugs after half an hour in Akihabara’s electric district or under the bright lights of Shibuya. Sonic’s not just a game here but a way of life as you rush up and down stairs pulling your hair out (although I think chasing Tails is left for Roppongi’s clubbing district). This is a city full of contrast. The skyline says it all as huge skyscrapers share streets with traditional temples and serene parks. But the overall impression is stranger Carlo Ancelotti’s eyebrow. Tokyo seems undecided whether to reflect the East or West. Having been a closed off Samurai state until the fall of the Tokugawa shogunate in the late 19th Century, Japan and Tokyo in particular strove to equal Western architecture. Consequently, western architects were employed across the middle of the 20thCentury to help impress the world, developing areas of central Tokyo. Tokyo copied and advanced on Western designs, most visible in Tokyo Tower which not only copies the design of the Eiffel Tower but also cheekily surpasses it in size by 13 meters (The Eiffel Tower is 320 meters tall). But it’s not the size but the way you use it, as despite its added height, Tokyo Tower is crammed amongst other buildings and is painted in community service orange and granny sweater beige. As such, it lacks the beauty and forward thinking of Paris. But in reaction to this Japan has fought to keep hold of its past, rebuilding and preserving many of the Temples and historic landmarks that were destroyed in WW2. Like a Mitchell and Webb sketch Tokyo’s skyline is left looking pretty monotone, but every now and then its genius! Despite its large population, Tokyo is also one of the cleanest places I’ve ever been, which is really odd as there seem to be no bins and vending machines every few steps. The people are health fanatics as many still wear flu masks and some won’t sit next to me on the underground – but then I get that in England too. This is not to mention the toilets; which, heated at a temperature that makes you feel like you’ve jumped in too soon after the person before. Also, everyone should be careful not to press the wrong button as you may get a bit of a shock – or maybe a pleasant surprise! I have also heard rumours that Tokyo has a number of secret night cleaners, sweeping and washing the streets – keeps them on the streets I guess. In the meantime, I’ve eaten plenty of Sushi, seen Mount Fuji and given Wagner some wailing lessons when attempting Karaoke. I’m currently waiting for an internal flight over to Hokkaido to see my university flat mate Mika. Having heard that it’s nippier than Jordan’s tank top I think I may need to buy another jumper when I get there!
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Samuel FryTraveller Archives
June 2011
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