Often it's the little things that surprise you when you travel. The scenery, though beautiful, fades as does the
initial allure of temples, transport and even to some extent people. It's the everyday things that suddenly make you stop, pause, look around quizzically and check if anyone else has taken note. Today I was shocked by a banana. They're smaller here for a start. But peal it's layers away and take a bite and something's different. The taste is stronger. The texture, although be it banana-like, is thicker with more layers. The small seeds, that in England barely exist, have a small crunch which is not entirely unwelcome. The Thai's would say it was 'same same but different'. I'd say top banana. I tried it next with an orange. Since when I have come to the conclusion that oranges are the same world over. I don't make this point to prove I am consuming at least some of my five a day (although if you do read this mum take note). Instead it's to explain how travelling changes you. I'm not enrolled in a Buddhist cult, nor have I taken to playing the harmonica and telling people to 'take a chill pill, man'. I am currently wearing a headband and I did a short while ago have a beard, yes, but that's not the point. The only points that existed as far as my beard was concerned were those on the tips of my Daliesque moustache. The point is, after a while it is those little moments that make you ponder and smile that make all the difference. This leg of the journey starts with a boat (not of the banana kind, I've left those metaphors behind me - although they were side splitting). This boat was taking me down the Mekong from Chiang Khong to Luang Prebang and by the nature of it's name alone it was slow. The journey itself was two days of beautiful scenery with a stop over in the small village town of Pak Beng. It may be small, but for Laos the prices were big as they were astute enough to realise that with no where else we could go they could charge what they liked. For many, this boat ride was a chance to play cards, drink Laobeer and meet some new riverside buddies. I read a book on Buddhism; maybe there's still room for me in this cult thing. Consequently, I arrived in Luang Prabang feeling as fresh as Lenor. Yet, even if I wasn't this is a city that could make you feel more relaxed than a cat on valium. The city, named after the Prabang Buddha statue that resides in its Royal Palace, is seen to many as South Asia's untouched city. Monks intertwine with locals and travellers alike and so it retains that Laoation charm; yet, truthfully to say it's untouched would be an exaggeration. The reason travellers fall for this city is partly due to its architecture, as golden Temples interweave with French neoclassic architecture. The buildings are small and quaint as streets focus towards Phu Si Hill, which at sunset attracts more tourists than the Queen in a tutu. But equally, the combination of cheap street food and strong whisky containing whatever insect or reptile you can imagine makes it hard to leave - especially when a mix of comfy cushions, volleyball and giant Jenga awaits in the evenings at Utopia bar. Also a day trip to Kouangxi waterfall is bluer than a Charlie Sheen film. While there we climbed up the waterfall to the secret spot and did our Tarzan impression until our chests were sore. Looking for history (turns out it was behind me - it's always the way isn't it) I headed to Phonsavan and to the plain of Jars. In north-east Laos lye more than 90 fields full of large stones carved into jar shapes over 2,000 years ago. No one knows the true reason for them although speculation ranges from whisky storage to sites of cremation. After the first field the place became quite jarring, so by the third I was happy to leave (making sure all doors were left slightly open on the way out of course). However, most interesting on visiting here was learning of Laos history. In a country that has been bombed more times per capita than any other in the world, it is remarkable that it's people are so friendly and embrace tourists as happily as they do. This seemed increasingly remarkable when I arrived in my next destination - the raving, swimming, rope swinging village of Vang Vieng. Ibiza watch out, as this town of tubing mayhem is more excitable than an American in McDonalds. As I spent my birthday here, I'm glad to still be alive. Thank goodness for baguettes. Laos has everything I could ever want from a place. It has perfect scenery, amazing people, a chilled vibe, 14 million chocolate raisins, a waterfall of Grape Fanta, the cast of Cool Runnings... Okay, maybe not everything I ever could want from a place. It's nice though.
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Samuel FryTraveller Archives
June 2011
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